lang.myfreeforum.org Forum Index  
  FAQ •  Search •  Memberlist •  Usergroups •  Join! (free)  •  Private Messages •  Log in

finally discovery a method that worked
Page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5  Next
 
Post new topic   Reply to topic
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
Please Register and Login to this forum to stop seeing this advertising.








 Post subject:

Posted:  
Back to top
Wood River BBQ Team





Joined: 16 May 2013
Posts: 426


Location: Tucson, AZ

Post Post subject:  Reply with quote

Both pinwheels were all the way open during the whole cook, I did not close those at all even when I was able to hold the 250 degree temp I was controlling it with the smoke stack damper.

During the cook, what is the position of your 2 pinwheels at say 275*?[/quote][/quote]


Vandy: When I'm smoking in the 275* to 300* range, I start with a full basket of lump charcoal. Wood is just to expensive and hard to get other than mesquite, which I rarely use. Once I get up to temperature I close the rear pinwheel and maintain temp using the front pinwheel and the chimney damper (I set it at about 11:00). As the fire burns down and the temp starts to drop, I open the chimney damper and partially open the back pinwheel. When I add fuel I proceed just like I did when I started the fire - both pinwheels are open as is the chimney damper.

I don't mess with the drain valve. I leave it closed all the time because I mostly cook using a water pan and grease never falls on the grates/plate but after reading your article I may experiment with the drain valve open to see if it improves the draft, which I think it might.

One advantage I have with my rig is that it's completely air tight. Additionally, I have fire bricks in the fire box so there is very little heat loss -- in other words's all the heats going into the cook chamber where it belongs.

I don't know but I think every Lang has it's own personality which the owner has to learn, so what works for me may not work for anyone else.

_________________
Wood River BBQ Team
Post Posted: Thu Dec 10, 2015 5:27 pm 
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
vandy





Joined: 20 Nov 2015
Posts: 49



Post Post subject: Reply with quote

Wood River BBQ Team wrote:
Both pinwheels were all the way open during the whole cook, I did not close those at all even when I was able to hold the 250 degree temp I was controlling it with the smoke stack damper.

During the cook, what is the position of your 2 pinwheels at say 275*?
[/quote]


Vandy: When I'm smoking in the 275* to 300* range, I start with a full basket of lump charcoal. Wood is just to expensive and hard to get other than mesquite, which I rarely use. Once I get up to temperature I close the rear pinwheel and maintain temp using the front pinwheel and the chimney damper (I set it at about 11:00). As the fire burns down and the temp starts to drop, I open the chimney damper and partially open the back pinwheel. When I add fuel I proceed just like I did when I started the fire - both pinwheels are open as is the chimney damper.

I don't mess with the drain valve. I leave it closed all the time because I mostly cook using a water pan and grease never falls on the grates/plate but after reading your article I may experiment with the drain valve open to see if it improves the draft, which I think it might.

One advantage I have with my rig is that it's completely air tight. Additionally, I have fire bricks in the fire box so there is very little heat loss -- in other words's all the heats going into the cook chamber where it belongs.

I don't know but I think every Lang has it's own personality which the owner has to learn, so what works for me may not work for anyone else.[/quote]




I think the next time I use this cooker I am going to give the water pan under the meat a try.  I assume you cook everything on the top rack, is that correct?  

I am working on making this thing air tight, I have some nomex gasket ordered to put around the door to seal it off completely.  I put some silicone seals that are self adhesive around it but I don't think that is going to last long and it is too thick to put around the top of the door so I still have a little bit of a leak there which I hope the nomex will take care of.  

I would love to try the fire bricks in the bottom of the firebox, where did you find bricks thin enough to put in the bottom of it?  How thick are the bricks?

I think you are right about the Lang's having their own personality, I am still learning this thing and every time I use it I think I learn a little more about the personality of mine.  

Thanks for all you help and tips by the way!
Bill
Post Posted: Thu Dec 10, 2015 7:04 pm 
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Wood River BBQ Team





Joined: 16 May 2013
Posts: 426


Location: Tucson, AZ

Post Post subject: Reply with quote

I think the next time I use this cooker I am going to give the water pan under the meat a try.  I assume you cook everything on the top rack, is that correct?  

I am working on making this thing air tight, I have some nomex gasket ordered to put around the door to seal it off completely.  I put some silicone seals that are self adhesive around it but I don't think that is going to last long and it is too thick to put around the top of the door so I still have a little bit of a leak there which I hope the nomex will take care of.  

I would love to try the fire bricks in the bottom of the firebox, where did you find bricks thin enough to put in the bottom of it?  How thick are the bricks?

I think you are right about the Lang's having their own personality, I am still learning this thing and every time I use it I think I learn a little more about the personality of mine.  

Thanks for all you help and tips by the way!
Bill[/quote]

Bill: I don't cook everything on the Lang. I have a Weber 22.5 for chicken and a Pit Barrell Cooker for tri tip, salmon, chicken wings etc. Big stuff like Ham, turkey, prime rib, brisket I cook on the Lang and I use a water pan because smoke loves a wet surface and I like to add humidity to the cook chamber so the meat doesn't dry out. Do a google search for more details. Some guys don't like to use it so it's a personal preference. I use the bottom rack for the water pan, which is a roasting pan and a wire rack sits on top of the pan. I don't use the top rack.

To seal the cracks, which were very thin, I used a cheap narrow tape
measure. It's the width of the lip on the cook chamber and I attached it with hight temp sealant. It's hard to seal the top edge of the cook chamber because of the hinges and a little leakage is OK -- my rig was leaking all over the place.

You can do a google search for the fire bricks. I think ACE carried them at one time but I'm not sure. Mine are as thin as floor tiles. The thick ones that look like bricks take up too much room and probably would not fit under the fire gate  plus they'd abstruct air floor from the pinwheels. In the  meantime, what you can do is place a piece of alum foil shinny side up on the bottom of the fire box. I actually place the alum foil over the fire bricks to aid in easy clean up. There's a topic about fire bricks on this forum but I don't know where it is right off the top of my head.

_________________
Wood River BBQ Team
Post Posted: Thu Dec 10, 2015 10:19 pm 
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
vandy





Joined: 20 Nov 2015
Posts: 49



Post Post subject: Reply with quote

My Lang did not have very many leaks, just around the door so it was not hard to fix about 90 percent of it and now I just have a small leak at the top of the door which is probably fine.  I will try to find the fire bricks that you are talking about, that sounds like that will help a great deal with the temperature control.  Thanks for all your help, I will let you know how this works out.
Post Posted: Thu Dec 10, 2015 10:36 pm 
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
vandy





Joined: 20 Nov 2015
Posts: 49



Post Post subject: Reply with quote

Wood River BBQ Team wrote:
I think the next time I use this cooker I am going to give the water pan under the meat a try.  I assume you cook everything on the top rack, is that correct?  

I am working on making this thing air tight, I have some nomex gasket ordered to put around the door to seal it off completely.  I put some silicone seals that are self adhesive around it but I don't think that is going to last long and it is too thick to put around the top of the door so I still have a little bit of a leak there which I hope the nomex will take care of.  

I would love to try the fire bricks in the bottom of the firebox, where did you find bricks thin enough to put in the bottom of it?  How thick are the bricks?

I think you are right about the Lang's having their own personality, I am still learning this thing and every time I use it I think I learn a little more about the personality of mine.  

Thanks for all you help and tips by the way!
Bill


Bill: I don't cook everything on the Lang. I have a Weber 22.5 for chicken and a Pit Barrell Cooker for tri tip, salmon, chicken wings etc. Big stuff like Ham, turkey, prime rib, brisket I cook on the Lang and I use a water pan because smoke loves a wet surface and I like to add humidity to the cook chamber so the meat doesn't dry out. Do a google search for more details. Some guys don't like to use it so it's a personal preference. I use the bottom rack for the water pan, which is a roasting pan and a wire rack sits on top of the pan. I don't use the top rack.

To seal the cracks, which were very thin, I used a cheap narrow tape
measure. It's the width of the lip on the cook chamber and I attached it with hight temp sealant. It's hard to seal the top edge of the cook chamber because of the hinges and a little leakage is OK -- my rig was leaking all over the place.

You can do a google search for the fire bricks. I think ACE carried them at one time but I'm not sure. Mine are as thin as floor tiles. The thick ones that look like bricks take up too much room and probably would not fit under the fire gate  plus they'd abstruct air floor from the pinwheels. In the  meantime, what you can do is place a piece of alum foil shinny side up on the bottom of the fire box. I actually place the alum foil over the fire bricks to aid in easy clean up. There's a topic about fire bricks on this forum but I don't know where it is right off the top of my head.[/quote]


I am having a hard time finding bricks as thin as yours are, the best I have come up with so far are about 1 1/4 inch to 1 1/2 inch thick.  Would that work or should I keep looking for something thinner.   Or would ceramic floor tile work?
Post Posted: Thu Dec 10, 2015 11:02 pm 
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Wood River BBQ Team





Joined: 16 May 2013
Posts: 426


Location: Tucson, AZ

Post Post subject: Reply with quote

I am having a hard time finding bricks as thin as yours are, the best I have come up with so far are about 1 1/4 inch to 1 1/2 inch thick.  Would that work or should I keep looking for something thinner.   Or would ceramic floor tile work?[/quote]

I think you're going to be stuck with 1.25"  because I can't  find the thin bricks either. Amazon carries Rutland replacement fire bricks and Tractor Supply carries US Stone. They have to be unglazed porcelean tiles. I don't know if ceramic would work -- they might crack.

_________________
Wood River BBQ Team
Post Posted: Tue Dec 15, 2015 2:28 pm 
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
vandy





Joined: 20 Nov 2015
Posts: 49



Post Post subject: Reply with quote

I found some bricks today at Ace and put them in the bottom of the firebox and they fit pretty good.  I am thinking about getting a thin piece of sheet metal (preferably stainless) if I can find it to put over the top of the bricks to make clean up easier.
Post Posted: Tue Dec 15, 2015 11:48 pm 
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Wood River BBQ Team





Joined: 16 May 2013
Posts: 426


Location: Tucson, AZ

Post Post subject: Reply with quote

vandy wrote:
I found some bricks today at Ace and put them in the bottom of the firebox and they fit pretty good.  I am thinking about getting a thin piece of sheet metal (preferably stainless) if I can find it to put over the top of the bricks to make clean up easier.


Use alum foil, shiny side up -- it's cheaper and easier to deal with. You just fold it up and trash it!!

_________________
Wood River BBQ Team
Post Posted: Wed Dec 16, 2015 12:56 am 
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
vandy





Joined: 20 Nov 2015
Posts: 49



Post Post subject: Reply with quote

Wood, I did try the aluminum foil over the bricks and it did make clean up a lot easier.  After everything cooled of and there was nothing but ash left all I had to do is take the fire grate out which is heavy as you know what and then fold the foil up and throw it out then I used my shop vac to get what little ash was left on the outside edge of the bricks.  At the hottest during the cook I could still put my hand on the bottom of the firebox without getting burned even though it was still hot enough that I could not leave my hand there for any length of time that sure is a big difference in how hot it used to be on the bottom.
Post Posted: Wed Dec 30, 2015 10:12 am 
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Wood River BBQ Team





Joined: 16 May 2013
Posts: 426


Location: Tucson, AZ

Post Post subject: Reply with quote

 After everything cooled of and there was nothing but ash left all I had to do is take the fire grate out which is heavy as you know what and then fold the foil up and throw it out then

Vandy: I've tried a number of ways to get the grate out of the fire box and none have worked. Previously, a forum lister told me how to do it but it didn't work for me. I almost think they built my fire box with the grate inside!! Anyway, I just work around it by lifting it up, and it is heavy, and slipping in the alum foil.


_________________
Wood River BBQ Team
Post Posted: Wed Dec 30, 2015 3:21 pm 
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic Page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5  Next
Page 4 of 5

 
Jump to:  
 
Create your own free forum | Buy a domain to use with your forum