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finally discovery a method that worked
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JDNC





Joined: 19 Oct 2014
Posts: 9



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Great informative thread!

I might add my .02 as I also use the flew occasionally.

Thermal currents cause the drawing effect of fireplaces, woodstoves and also these smokers.  Also the height of the smoke stack is somewhat the same as a chimney on a house as it also influences the draw alot like the length of a blowgun causes a higher velocity.  The more heat the more draw unless restricted by flew or damper.  Have you ever cracked the door open on the firebox with a good burning fire and heard the whistle as air is sucked in?

Im new to these smokers but was raised burning wood, coal all my life and the fundimentals are the same..somewhat.

Personally I think as most, that our temps are based on how big or small our fires are.  I've found that if I have a full load of meat in my 36 I can get by with a larger fire and leave the flew open full.  And also the outside temps have and effect too.  This last weekend I decided to cook one sparerib rack and the outside temps were in the 70's.  I found that I had to have a very very small fire and to keep it burning clean I was forced to close the pinwheel dampers down  and also use the flew at about 60 %.

So I agree, they're times that the flew has to be restricted also, to get a nice clean fire.  My experience with the Lang 36 is I generally have to with small loads of meat and when I'm having a difficult time trying to adjust the flew to keep temps down, usually on warmer days.

As mentiones previously, I have to control the fire with the flew because I can only cut back on the pinwheels so much on a small fire before it starts to smoke too much.  The answer is to leave the pinwheels open somewhat and contro the fire with the flew.

Every smoking event offers a different set of circumstances, load, outside temps, etc. and so on, so it's always a little different everytime. Rolling Eyes
Post Posted: Thu Mar 12, 2015 6:30 pm 
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Wood River BBQ Team





Joined: 16 May 2013
Posts: 426


Location: Tucson, AZ

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Dsarphie: Today I'm cooking a brisket point (about 3lbs). The goal is to hold the temp around 250* to 270*. Since it's going to be about a 4 hour cook I've started with a full basket of lump and pecan chunks. Previously, using just the side pinwheels, this fire would have gotten away from me until it burned down a bit. I've closed the right pinwheel and the left is about 1/2 and the most important part -- the chimney is about 90" (about 11:00). Your idea is working great.

Anytime I fire up the Lang it draws a crowd. One neighbor questioned the chimney flue. I told him to watch how it works. He's going to try it on his cooker.

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Post Posted: Sun Mar 15, 2015 7:45 pm 
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KevinWI





Joined: 30 Dec 2013
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Location: Wisconsin

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Before I bought my lang, there was a video on youtube of a couple that cooked professionally on their lang and they said the same thing.

I have been doing the same thing lately and can control the heat much better this way.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dZLViMTL3To

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Post Posted: Sun Mar 29, 2015 7:38 pm 
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Wood River BBQ Team





Joined: 16 May 2013
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Location: Tucson, AZ

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I wish there was a way to highlight this important  topic for Lang users -- maybe Kevin could do a video??

Initially, I didn't believe adjusting the damper would work until I tried it. On previous smokers, I never touched the damper because I thought I'd smother the fire. Last week I attended the Sam's Club cook off in Tucson (as an observer) and probably 90% of the dampers were wide open. I talked to one of the 10 percenter's, who was using the damper to control temperature and he told me you can't beat it as a temperature control especially for "low & slow".

For Easter I'm cooking a ham and I want to maintain 225* to 250*, which isn't easy because temperatures above 250* to 275* or 300*, which are easy to get to,  will dry out the ham, which is already cooked. I'm going to start with a 1/2 basket of lump charcoal/ cherry & pecan chunks and build up to the low range. I'll have to watch the temperature closely but if it starts to get away from me I'll use the damper and the left pinwheel to dial in 225* to 250*.

My suggeation for Lang users is to experiment with your damper. Start with the pinwheels and then "fine tune" with the damper.

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Post Posted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 11:40 pm 
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dsarphie





Joined: 08 May 2014
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that's a good idea.  I may try to do that
Post Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 4:24 pm 
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Eddie Z





Joined: 16 Jul 2013
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Location: romeoville il

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Question....are you probing temp across the cooking chamber? Is your temp even?
Post Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 4:41 pm 
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dsarphie





Joined: 08 May 2014
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I run a Maverick probe on the top and bottom racks, at the left and right sides.  Sometimes I run probes in the center as well, but I did not the first time I tried this method.  Using my set up the top rack was even from left to right.  The lower rack ran a little hotter on the firebox side from the other, but not as drastic as with my other attempts to even temperature.  I think that was attributed to the fact that I always had an even burn going with the snake method for loading wood.  when I load wood from the top I am dampening the fire and it needs time to catch back up.  loading the logs from behind and pushing the burning coals forward allows the fire to maintain a consistent burn.
Post Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 4:51 pm 
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KevinWI





Joined: 30 Dec 2013
Posts: 178


Location: Wisconsin

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Eddie Z wrote:
Question....are you probing temp across the cooking chamber? Is your temp even?


Yes and no.

Yes I probe it right to left...no its not even....closer to the firebox, hotter it gets.

However...I will say this without a shadow of a doubt...from right to left, the temps are much closer using the stack damper, than pinwheel dampers.
Right this minute I'm cooking ribs....I'm settling the temp down from 370, but right now the middle temp is 262 and the far left probe is at 255. ...that's pretty close.

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 5:29 pm 
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dsarphie





Joined: 08 May 2014
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KevinWI...when you say that you're settling down from 370, and then on your 262 vs. 255 readings, is that on Temp Trus or something installed on the hood, or digital probes on the racks?  I think that 262 vs 255 from right to left is very good for a lower rack.  The upper should be able to achieve the same all the way across.

Do you always run high and then bring it down? I always try to creep in to my target temperature.  I seem to have wider variations if I'm trying to bring the temp down.
Post Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 6:46 pm 
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KevinWI





Joined: 30 Dec 2013
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Location: Wisconsin

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dsarphie wrote:
KevinWI...when you say that you're settling down from 370, and then on your 262 vs. 255 readings, is that on Temp Trus or something installed on the hood, or digital probes on the racks?  I think that 262 vs 255 from right to left is very good for a lower rack.  The upper should be able to achieve the same all the way across.

Do you always run high and then bring it down? I always try to creep in to my target temperature.  I seem to have wider variations if I'm trying to bring the temp down.


Maverick probe. Right now I'm down to about 234 at the middle and 225 to the left...
I'm experimenting with it.
I wouldn't crank it up that high to start normally...just wanted to see how long it would take using the flue damper only... hour and 15 to get down to 234.
Still I think The rear pinwheel should be closed either full to slightly open and then adjust the  flue from there TBH...with both pinwheels open, your fire has no choice but to burn hotter.


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Post Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 7:21 pm 
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