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Air Tight Cook Chamber
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dsarphie





Joined: 08 May 2014
Posts: 58



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Great idea!  I look forward to seeing those pics of the firebox.  Please post pics of the chamber door too.

Thank you.
Post Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 4:25 pm 
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jsk404





Joined: 23 Oct 2013
Posts: 26



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I haven't really used my Lang 36" enough to notice a problem with the smoker door but as for the fire box door I am having a problem.
After I pull the grate out and clean the ash from the box I replace the grate and can close the door very easy, however, after building a fire it seems the metal expands and I can't close the door. I can see the inside angle on the hinge side of the door is hitting the grate and I have to force the door in to latch and with the spring back, it leaves a gap between the door and fire box. I may just trim part of the angle that is hitting the grate but I was wondering if anyone else has or had the same problem.
Post Posted: Fri Aug 22, 2014 6:23 pm 
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Wood River BBQ Team





Joined: 16 May 2013
Posts: 426


Location: Tucson, AZ

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jsk404 wrote:
I haven't really used my Lang 36" enough to notice a problem with the smoker door but as for the fire box door I am having a problem.
After I pull the grate out and clean the ash from the box I replace the grate and can close the door very easy, however, after building a fire it seems the metal expands and I can't close the door. I can see the inside angle on the hinge side of the door is hitting the grate and I have to force the door in to latch and with the spring back, it leaves a gap between the door and fire box. I may just trim part of the angle that is hitting the grate but I was wondering if anyone else has or had the same problem.


Jsk404: I had a similiar problem. First of all I've tried every way possible to get the grate out of the fire box and I finally gave up. The fire box door fit is very close to the grate but it does close.

The door handle is my problem. The nut is welded on and when the fire box heats up I can barely latch/unlatch the door. I ground a little bit of material from the latch area and from the latch itself (the piece of metal that hooks behind the side of the fire box). If I could have backed off just a hair on the nut I'd have been OK. I just live with the fact and barely catch the latch and it makes a tight seal.

I think your fix is to trim the material, which is a shame for a customer to have to do with a $1500 unit.

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 22, 2014 7:01 pm 
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Wood River BBQ Team





Joined: 16 May 2013
Posts: 426


Location: Tucson, AZ

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jsk404 wrote:
I haven't really used my Lang 36" enough to notice a problem with the smoker door but as for the fire box door I am having a problem.
After I pull the grate out and clean the ash from the box I replace the grate and can close the door very easy, however, after building a fire it seems the metal expands and I can't close the door. I can see the inside angle on the hinge side of the door is hitting the grate and I have to force the door in to latch and with the spring back, it leaves a gap between the door and fire box. I may just trim part of the angle that is hitting the grate but I was wondering if anyone else has or had the same problem.


Jsk404: I had a similiar problem. First of all I've tried every way possible to get the grate out of the fire box and I finally gave up. The fire box door fit is very close to the grate but it does close.

The door handle is my problem. The nut is welded on and when the fire box heats up I can barely latch/unlatch the door. I ground a little bit of material from the latch area and from the latch itself (the piece of metal that hooks behind the side of the fire box). If I could have backed off just a hair on the nut I'd have been OK. I just live with the fact and barely catch the latch and it makes a tight seal.

I think your fix is to trim the material, which is a shame for a customer to have to do with a $1500 unit.

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 22, 2014 7:02 pm 
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jsk404





Joined: 23 Oct 2013
Posts: 26



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Quote:
Jsk404: I had a similiar problem. First of all I've tried every way possible to get the grate out of the fire box and I finally gave up. The fire box door fit is very close to the grate but it does close.

The door handle is my problem. The nut is welded on and when the fire box heats up I can barely latch/unlatch the door. I ground a little bit of material from the latch area and from the latch itself (the piece of metal that hooks behind the side of the fire box). If I could have backed off just a hair on the nut I'd have been OK. I just live with the fact and barely catch the latch and it makes a tight seal.

I think your fix is to trim the material, which is a shame for a customer to have to do with a $1500 unit.


Well if you want to give it one more shot I tilt the grate up at an angle with the right side of the grate towards the bottom hinge side of the door then have to slide the back side of the grate (end farthest from the door opening) to the left as to angle the front legs towards the opening and once you get the front legs out the back will follow and just reverse to get it back in and remember the narrow ends are to the back and opening side the long sides are to the left and right.

As far as the door closing I did a 9lb pork shoulder yesterday and before the cook the door closed with ease, as it heated up the door got harder and harder to close. The grate and door do expand on mine enough to cause it problems closing it and as it cools down I have no problem go figure on Langs tight tolerance LOL. I'll hit it with the grinder and it should be fine.

Good luck on getting your grate out Wood River BBq Team.
Post Posted: Sun Aug 24, 2014 6:11 pm 
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flybuy





Joined: 25 Sep 2014
Posts: 14



Post Post subject: fire box door. Reply with quote

I am having problems with my fire box door hitting hindge. Didn't have a problem until I made a charcoal basket to try for longer burn times. After using basket with half a load of charcoal door don't want to open all the way with out scraping hindge. I am a little hesitate to try basket again. Afraid I will warp my door.
Anyone one else using charcoal basket with success?
Post Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 6:07 pm 
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Wood River BBQ Team





Joined: 16 May 2013
Posts: 426


Location: Tucson, AZ

Post Post subject: Re: fire box door. Reply with quote

flybuy wrote:
I am having problems with my fire box door hitting hindge. Didn't have a problem until I made a charcoal basket to try for longer burn times. After using basket with half a load of charcoal door don't want to open all the way with out scraping hindge. I am a little hesitate to try basket again. Afraid I will warp my door.
Anyone one else using charcoal basket with success?


Flybuy: I'm not sure I understand your problem but I'm using a charcoal basket (homemade) and it's the only way to go -- in my opinion. Even though I "measured twice and cut once" I still had to fool with it to get it to fit right.

The temperatures in the fire box are obviously very high relative to the cook chamber whether you use a charcoal basket or not and these temperature will effect the fire box door. It should not warp if they welded it correctly.

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Post Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 8:34 pm 
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flybuy





Joined: 25 Sep 2014
Posts: 14



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Wood River how big did you make your basket?I made mine 15x 12x 7 inches. I filled the basket about half full trying the minion method by lighting front left corner. By the time my smoker was up to temp the whole basket was burning. I closed damps and temp just kept rising.
Long story short minion method didn't work for me. It took about 50 minutes to get smoker up to temp with dampers open all the way.
My basket is only about an inch in front of door so my door got hotter than when I only use wood.
By getting so hot it made it very hard to open (burned paint)and door rubs hindge now so I am hesitate to try again.Any advise will be appreciated! !
Thanks
Post Posted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 12:48 am 
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Wood River BBQ Team





Joined: 16 May 2013
Posts: 426


Location: Tucson, AZ

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flybuy wrote:
Wood River how big did you make your basket?I made mine 15x 12x 7 inches. I filled the basket about half full trying the minion method by lighting front left corner. By the time my smoker was up to temp the whole basket was burning. I closed damps and temp just kept rising.
Long story short minion method didn't work for me. It took about 50 minutes to get smoker up to temp with dampers open all the way.
My basket is only about an inch in front of door so my door got hotter than when I only use wood.
By getting so hot it made it very hard to open (burned paint)and door rubs hindge now so I am hesitate to try again.Any advise will be appreciated! !
Thanks



Flybuy: My charcoal basket is about the same size as your's -- approximately, 15.5" deep and 13" wide. I made it so it fits inside the fire box grate. Obviously, the door opening and hinges determine the width. It took a few times cutting to get it right.

I don't use the Minion Method. I start with the basket 1/2 -3/4 full of Royal Oak lump (due to the small size of the fire box itself that's not a lot of lump). I lay 2 or 3 pieces of coke can size camp fire wood, which burns hot and fast, on top of the pile and light it with a brush burner (Harbor Freight). Side vents and chimney (chimney is always open) are open as is the fire box door and the cook chamber lid. The unit itself is a bubble off to help with the draft. The draft starts quickly and I then close the lid and the fire box to the latch open position. In about 15 - 20 minutes the cook chamber temperature is about 275* to 295* and I'm ready to cook. I close the right side vent and adjust the left vent to 3/4 open and latch the fire box, which brings the temp to about 250* to 260*. When I open the lid to put the meat on the temp drops  but comes right back up and stabilizes.

I can't figure out why you're having a problem with your fire box door. My fire box has bricks on the bottom plus a sheet of alum foil over the bricks. No heat is lost through the bottom and after re-welding my door no smoke or heat escapes. In theory, my fire box should be much hotter than yours. Until I re-welded the door, is did warp but is OK now. Since my unit is virtually air tight, I don't lose any heat/smoke anywhere and it's easy for me to maintain a stable cook temperature plus my fuel goes a longer way than when I had leaks all over the place.

It should not take you 50 minutes to get up to cook temperature. Have you watched the fire starting video? It's the same method I pretty much described above.

Maybe I'm missing something that other lister's might pick up on to solve your two problems. Learning to control my unit didn't happen over night -- I had to fight with it to figure it out.

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Post Posted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 2:08 pm 
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fender





Joined: 18 Feb 2014
Posts: 25


Location: Vermont

Post Post subject: Re: fire box door. Reply with quote

flybuy wrote:
I am having problems with my fire box door hitting hindge. Didn't have a problem until I made a charcoal basket to try for longer burn times. After using basket with half a load of charcoal door don't want to open all the way with out scraping hindge. I am a little hesitate to try basket again. Afraid I will warp my door.
Anyone one else using charcoal basket with success?


Flybuy, I also use a basket the same way Wood River described- ½ full lump/ wood / weed burner and continue with wood after. I get the same results from start-up to cook time using this method and wouldn’t go back to the grate.   I don’t think you will have any issues with warping the door; I have cooked chicken thighs @ 375-400+ and my basket almost touches the door.  I basically use the basket/lump method to get the wood burning and the cooker up temp faster.  Heat the charcoal and wood evenly until it is burning and go from there as Wood said.

Post Posted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 7:34 pm 
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